THE FASCINATING HISTORY OF GOLD VERMEIL

Updated on  
THE FASCINATING HISTORY OF GOLD VERMEIL

Silver-gilt, occasionally referred to in American English as vermeil, is silver (either pure or sterling) that has been gilded with gold. Many large objects crafted in goldsmithing that give the appearance of gold are, in fact, silver-gilt; this includes the majority of sporting trophies (including Olympic gold medals awarded after 1912) and numerous crown jewels.


Cartier Vintage Sterling Gilt Belt Necklace

In addition to the significant cost savings in acquiring raw materials compared to any karat of solid gold, large silver-gilt items are visibly lighter when lifted and more resilient. Unlike gold, which is heavier than lead and prone to scratching and bending, silver-gilt objects offer durability. Moreover, gilding is particularly advantageous for intricately detailed objects like monstrances, as it minimizes the necessity for cleaning and polishing, thereby reducing the risk of damage. Unlike ungilded silver, which is susceptible to oxidation and requires frequent polishing, gold does not oxidize. It's worth noting that the "gold" threads used in embroidered goldwork typically consist of silver-gilt as well.Since ancient times, silver-gilt objects have been crafted across Eurasia, employing a diverse array of gilding methods. The Incas of Pre-Columbian South America notably developed a distinctive depletion gilding technique. References to overlaying, folding, or hammering gold foil or leaf can be found in Homer's Odyssey (Bk vi, 232). Fire-gilding with mercury, dating back to at least the 4th century BC, prevailed as the primary method until at least the Early Modern period, despite its risks to workers, including potential blindness among French artisans who refined the technique in the 18th century. Today, electroplating stands as the prevailing method, offering enhanced safety as it eliminates the use of mercury. Keum-boo, a specialized Korean technique, employs depletion gilding for silver. In China, gilt-bronze, also known as ormolu, enjoyed greater popularity.

Coronation spoon - England

Vermeil, an alternative term for silver-gilt, originated from French and gained usage in the English language, particularly in America, during the 19th century. It's less common in British English. Additionally, "vermeil" can denote gilt bronze, a cheaper alternative to silver.

According to the US Code of Federal Regulations 16, Part 23.5, a product can only be labeled as "vermeil" if it comprises sterling silver coated or plated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of at least 10-karat fineness, with a substantial thickness of a minimum of two and a half microns throughout.

Silver items could undergo gilding at any stage, not solely during their initial creation. Objects regularly handled, like toilet service sets or tableware, often required regilding after some years as the gold coating wore off. In 18th-century London, two separate silversmiths charged 3 shillings per ounce of silver for the initial gilding and 1 shilling and 9 pence per ounce for subsequent regilding. Often, only the interior of cups was gilded, possibly due to concerns about the chemicals used to clean silver tarnish, a practice known as parcel-gilt.

 

English Georgian Gilt Sterling Silver Open Salt Trencher

Fully silver-gilt items closely resembled solid gold and were frequently mistaken for it. During the sale of the Crown Jewels of England by the English Commonwealth after the execution of Charles I, disappointment arose when "Queen Edith's Crowne," previously believed to be solid gold, was discovered to be silver-gilt, valued at a mere £16 compared to £1,110 for the "imperial crowne." This discrepancy troubled English Gothic Revival architect Sir George Gilbert Scott, who questioned the morality of such misrepresentation. While he accepted gilding of the interior only, he believed that all-over gilding crossed the boundary between truth and falsehood. Some Early Medieval silver-gilt Celtic brooches even featured compartments apparently designed for small lead weights to enhance the illusion of solid gold.